Category: Big bites

Tangia Lamb Stew

A mishmash of sorts: Chinese inspired stew in a Moroccan pot. I experimented with the Cantonese stew in my recently acquired Tangia pot. Really a sign of the times- the global village we live in that gives everyone the ability to draw from diverse cultures.

The Tangia pot is like an amphora jar, unlike the more popular Tagine pot where the oversized lid allows for a large space for steam to circulate steaming the top layer while braising the bottom layer. In a Tangia, on the other hand, all the layers meld into one.

An absolutely easy-peasy, no-hassles recipe with no pre-browning (just a trot to your local Asian market). I replace the Moroccan spices with a melange of soy-based sauces giving that unmistakable Hong-Kong depth of flavor. I throw in some of my own twists (kicap manis and sake which have served me so well on previous occasions).

It turns out that the sous-vide (under vacuum) version works equally well. I am a reluctant sous-vider but this one may have made a convert out of me. Enjoy either the tangia/oven or the vacuum pack/sous vide version!

Special tools:

Moroccan tangia pot.

Ingredients

  • 1 lb boneless lamb, fat trimmed and cut into stew sized pieces
  • Sauce: 1.5 tbsp Chou Hou Sauce + 1 tbsp Hoisin Sauce + 1 tbsp Oyster Sauce + 1 tbsp Malaysian Sweet Soy Sauce (kicap manis) + 2 tbsp sake
  • Aromatics: 1 bay leaf + 2 star anise + 1 tbsp dried orange peel
  • 1 large potato peeled and cut into bite sized pieces and steamed till fork tender and slightly cooled
  • Garnish: sliced scallions + chopped cilantro

Method

Put all ingredients, except the garnish, in the tangia pot. Seal top with aluminum foil. Bake at 350 F for 2 hours.

Garnish and serve with greens (tender pea greens in picture). Alternatively, serve with steamed rice.

Notes, hints, tips:
  1. It is very likely you wont have a tangia pot, then choose a baking pan with as narrow a mouth as possible. Place a droplid on the surface of the stew- this way the ingredients are encouraged to stew in their own juices, quite literally.
  2. To be doubly safe, I place the tangia pot in a hot water bath (bain marie). Though in Morocco the pots may indeed be placed in actual village baths. Ha.
  3. If you cannot get kicap manis (1 tbsp), mix 1 tbsp soy sauce with 1 tbsp brown sugar.
  4. Sous-vide version. Vacuum seal and cook at 155 F for 8 hours.

Laxmi Parida2 Comments

Larb-inspired Salad with Baby Beet Greens & Macambo

 

I may alienate my Thai friends by designating Larb as Laotian. Indeed, many Thai restaurants in the US offer Larb on their menu. Irrespective of the origin (after all Laos and Thailand share a border and history), all will agree that the rest of humanity is grateful for this éclat of a salad from Southeast Asia.  Moreover, it can be simply put together in ten minutes in your kitchen!  But you need to stock your pantry with a trip to your South-East Asian grocery (lemongrass, fish sauce).

I use the Mediterranean capers to deepen the citrus accent and Amazonian macambo nuts for texture (& ‘superfood’ factor). These nuts are somewhat large and I compare that to the size of a quarter in the photograph (do NOT use the coin in your recipe!).  All the ingredients are easily accessible (over the internet) or have simple substitutes. But the result is incroyable, as they say. Do give it a try.

Larb
Larb
Baby Beet Greens
Macambo Nuts

Special tools:

None.

Ingredients

  • 1 lb ground meat (lamb or chicken or turkey)
  • Greens: 2 cups of lightly packed baby beet greens + 1 cup lightly packed mint leaves, coarsely chopped
  • 3-4 pods of garlic crushed and cooked lightly in 2 tbsp oil, till fragrant
  • Seasoning liquid:  juice of 1 lime +  2 tbsp fish sauce
  • 1 large shallot thinly sliced + 4-5 scallions finely sliced + 2-3 serrano chilies + white part of 1 lemon-grass stalk very finely minced  + 1 tbsp capers OR zest of one lime
  • 1/2 cup Macambo nuts lightly toasted and coarsely crushed

Method

Heat a thick bottomed pan. Add the oil from the crushed garlic mix, add the minced meat and saute, breaking up the lumps, till granular and cooked. This takes about five minutes. Mix the rest of the ingredients, except the greens, till well mixed.  Taste and adjust seasoning.  Then fold in the greens.

Notes, hints, tips:
  1. You can use any other light greens, including cilantro leaves.
  2. Instead of greens folded into the salad, you can serve it with butter lettuce leaves (in the Korean way) or cabbage leaves, cut into wedges.
  3. The lemon grass is very hard and you may need to use a processor if your knife is unable to handle it.
  4. You can use any nuts: peanuts is traditional. But feel free to use your favorite.

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Japanese-inspired Chicken Paillard

I had a fun contest with my friend this weekend when he made an Indian-inspired Fish and I created this Japanese-inspired Chicken. Well, he is as Indian as I am Japanese. A tough contest since Indian recipes have a riot of spices seducing your palate; but the gentle Washoku flavors  produced a winner! It was so good, that I dare to post it.

If you were wondering about paillard:  it is an eponymous term for a quick saute of pounded meat.  A very easy process, and, a simple combination with common Japanese pantry ingredients gives stunning results.  Do give it a try!

[Postscript: This met with approval from a foodie and a tough-critic, Takahiko, who even likened this to mizoreni. I immediately put it on my to-try list.]

washokuChickenPaillard
Chicken Paillard

Special tools:

None.

Ingredients

  • 1.5  lb chicken breasts; butterflied and pounded lightly
  • Sauce:  100 ml mirin + 90 ml soy sauce + 60 ml sake
  • 2 tbsp (neutral) cooking oil
  • 1 leek, sliced and thoroughly washed, in plenty of cold water, to remove any grit

Method

In a ziplock place the sauce ingredients and the chicken. Marinade for 15 minutes. In a large flat-bottomed saute pan, heat oil on medium heat. [Optionally, coat the chicken lightly with oatmeal.] Loosely arrange the chicken pieces on the oil. When the chicken is lightly browned on one side (about 2 mins); flip the chicken pieces. Let brown for two minutes on the other side. Then pour the left-over marinading liquid.  Bring to a light simmer.  Arrange the leek on top. Cover with lid and simmer for 5 minutes.

Serve with hot rice topped with furikake seasonings.

Notes, hints, tips:
  1. For measuring out the different liquids of small quantities, as in this recipe, I find that a bartender’s measure (or a jigger) is quite convenient to use.
  2. To pound the chicken:  I placed one piece at a time in a ziplock bag and lightly rolled a  Rosé bottle (to the horror of the guests; but rest assured no wine was harmed in the process). This is adequate; you don’t need a fancy pounder.
  3. When you coat the chicken in some flour, before sauteing, it is technically a scaloppini.  But why would you care what is is called.
  4. You can use scallions instead of leek.
  5. Alternative toppings: sesame seeds, nori, wasabi, sansyo pepper.
  6. Western wisdom is to discard the marinading chicken liquid (out of abundance of caution). But since you are simmering the sauce for 5 minutes, it is quite safe. But if you have concerns, then discard the marinading liquid and make another fresh batch for the sauce.

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A genetic story: Honeynut Mousse

This posting is a meeting of two genetic stories.  Legend has it that the intensely sweet and  small butternut squash (named the honeynut) was the result of a challenge thrown by the Chef of Blue Hill to a plant geneticist at Cornell.  Row 7 seed company is evidence of their success story.  I really appreciate the challenge of concentrating flavor, since I myself have dabbled in the genetics of food sources (TED talk).

The second genetic story is that of me: I am genetically disposed to dentist visits. But my dentist does not get it- he constantly rebukes me for unhealthy habits like soda and sugar, though I entertain no such inclinations.  Nevertheless, after one such dental procedure, I was resigned to soft bland food. After a day of mashed potatoes and yogurt, the honeynuts came to my rescue.  Not a soup, a mousse:  a high temperature roast intensifies the flavor even more.  I call it a mousse but it is not a dessert, unless you want it to be one. In any case, the result was so delicious that my Pavlovian-self  now even looks forward to the dentists’ eeky interventions!

A final note: yes, I am a “genetic” activist.  I believe that indeed most of phenotype-of-the-living is explainable by its genetics alone.

Special tools:

Blender.

Ingredients

  • 3 honeynut squashes halved lengthwise and the internal pulp and seeds removed
  • 3-4 pods of garlic
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • 1 tbsp EVOO
  • 1-2 tbsp maple syrup (optional)
  • liquid: 1/2 can of coconut milk + 1 cup almond milk
  • Topping: blue cheese of your choice

Method

Place the halved honeynut squash with the cut side up on a baking tray. Brush with EVOO. Add salt and pepper and the whole pods of garlic. Roast at 425 F for 30 mins.

With a pair of kitchen shears cut the squash into small pieces (with the skin on; but not the stem! ) directly into the blender. Peel the garlic by simply pressing gently to get the interior pulp out. To accentuate the sweetness, you can add the maple syrup.  Add the liquid and run the blender till it turns into smooth thick paste. Serve with the cheese topping.

Notes, hints, tips:
  1. If  the squash is hard to cut, microwave for 2 minutes or so till it just softens enough for the knife to run through.
  2. The immersion blender will not work here since I keep it very thick (albeit with the skin on) and a minimal amount of liquid. The shattered skin in the mousse gives an appealing texture.
  3. I believe the magical mainstay of this recipe is squash, coconut milk and blue cheese.
  4. To melt the cheese, you can place each serving bowl in the microwave for 20-25 secs.
  5. I used a Stilton style artisanal blue cheese (with Roquefort mold).

Laxmi Parida3 Comments

Fiddlehead Ferns

If you were looking for something totally different, yet utterly simply and delicious, then you reached the right place.  In-season fiddlehead ferns. But these are available for  a short time, so keep your eyes peeled at your farmers’ market.

I use the Ponzu soy sauce which is a soy sauce with a citric twist. This Japanese sauce is incredible and I believe the inclusion of citrus in the sauce was the result of Dutch influence on the Japanese, a few centuries ago.  A pleasant fruit of cross-talk between diverse cultures.

I dare this rather unusual combination of garlic with the Asian ingredients, but the effect is quite toothsome!

Fiddlehead ferns
Fiddlehead ferns

Special tools:

None

Ingredients

  • 200 gms of fiddlehead ferns, delicately washed
  • 1 tbsp Ponzu soy sauce
  • 1 tbsp sesame oil
  • 1 crushed pod of garlic
  • little salt

Method

Blanch the washed ferns. A quick and less cumbersome way of doing this is to simply wrap them in moist paper towel and microwave for 1 or 2 minutes, based on your microwave. This process both brightens the greens (see the picture on the right of the cooked ferns) and softens them just right.

Gently heat the sesame oil in a frying pan with the crushed garlic. Be careful not to burn the garlic.  Add the ferns, salt and toss till mixed. Be careful with the salt since your sauce would be salted as well. Add the Ponzu soy sauce and rapidly mix till the ferns are well dressed.  Turn off heat and serve warm.

Notes, hints, tips:
  1. If you don’t  like the garlic bits, the sesame oil can be simply infused with garlic: heat the crushed garlic in the oil and then remove the garlic bits when fragrant and use the oil.
  2. An alternative to the Asian ingredients (sesame oil, Ponzu sauce) is the more classic butter.

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French Notes: Navarin to Savarin (part I)

Nothing beats a rhyming menu: entrée  (navarin) to dessert (savarin), with  romarin sprig in champagne. The last one is my favorite apéritif: the fragrant notes of rosemary combined with the crisp bubbles that hit the nose and the palate simultaneouly is a winner in my book.  A sommelier, on Paris soil,  once pointed out to me with his elegant French accent that a flute– which BTW is a great rosemary-sprig delivery device– is where the Americans falter with sparkling wine. He proposed a small red wine glass with a wider brim– I am still pondering over it.

Navarin Printanier is a stew of spring vegetables and lamb. Here I adapt the classical recipe with a touch of overwintered spinach and a garnish of toasted dessicated coconut.
In the second part, I will tackle savarin.

navarin
Navarin Printanier

Special tools:

Slow cooker (crockpot) or pressure cooker

Ingredients

  • 2 lbs lamb stew cut (shoulder)
  • vegetables trimmed and cut into 1″ stew pieces (3/4 cup each of potatoes, carrots, turnips)
  • Flavoring agents: 2 pods garlic minced + 1/2 tsp thyme leaves + 1 bay leaf
  • cooking medium: 2 cups chicken broth + 16 oz crushed tomatoes
  • 2 tbsp oil
  • Coating: 1/4 cup flour + salt & pepper to taste
  • 8 oz pearl onions + 1 cup green peas
  • 3-4 bunches overwintered spinach, chopped with stem
  • 1 cup (unsweetened) dessicated coconut, toasted lightly on a skillet

Method

Coat the lamb pieces with the coating ingredients in a ziplock bag. Heat the oil on a skillet and brown the lamb pieces. Then remove and add to the slow cooker.  Deglaze the skillet with some of the chicken broth.  Add all the ingredients except that last three bulleted items above.  Add salt to taste and cook on “slow” (200 F) for  5 hours till the meat is tender. Check with the particular brand of your slow cooker.

Add the pearl onions+green peas and  let cook for 45 mins.  Add the spinach for the last 15 minutes of cooking.

Serve hot garnished with toasted coconut.

Notes, hints, tips:
  1. The overwintered spinach is not tender enough for salad but great to provide some texture to this stew.
  2. You can cut time by using a pressure cooker instead.  Based on your pressure cooker,  the cooking time can be as low as 30 minutes.  Take off the pressure and add the pearl onions+peas and spinach.
  3. With enough spinach in the stew, it is a complete meal.
  4. The stew is even better the second day after refrigeration. Not only the flavors meld, any fat residue solidifies as a top layer and can be easily separated.

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