Category: Big bites

Wild Mushroom Chicken Achari

Most Indian pickles (achar) are sour, salty and spicy. Salty ? Yes, like Feta, or preserved black olives, or even salty pretzels. While many find achar irresistible, it is undoubtedly an acquired taste. Even the most ardent Indophiles, if untrained, are known to have tapped out.

Driven by the need for a quick yet toothsome meal for a hungry, fussy bunch, I had cobbled this up which met with stunning success. But, it was so embarrassingly easy, that I had closeted it. Emboldened by the presence of an achari dish amongst “100 essential recipes” in The Flavor Equation (a book I received from secret Santa this year), I am having mine step out of the closet. I have added locally grown wild mushrooms and Fall carrots to elevate the humble chicken breasts. You don’t even have to be an Indophile to enjoy this spectacular briny-spicy dish. Enjoy!

Special tools:

Steaming baskets.

Ingredients

Makes two servings.

  • 1 lb chicken breasts, cut thin into 4-5 pieces (or, thin chicken cutlets)
  • veggies: 2 cups loosely packed Maitake mushrooms + 1 cup julienned carrots carrots
  • 1/3 cup store-bought Mango Pickles
  • Seasoning (optional): 1 tsp panch phutana, toasted and powdered
  • Garnish (optional): micro-greens

Method

Mix the chicken with the pickles; mix in the carrots and then gently the mushrooms. Portion out on two plates, add 1 tbsp water in each and sprinkle seasoning on top. Steam for 15-20 mins, till chicken is done.

Garnish and serve hot with grains or bread.

Notes, hints, tips:
  1. I adapted the Chinese technique of steaming and I love their bamboo steaming baskets. You may wrap the chicken in aluminium or parchment packets and place directly in your steaming basket.
  2. You can increase the amount of pickles in this recipe to 1/2 cup or more for a more assertive flavor.
  3. Although rice is a friendly accompaniment, buckwheat groats (or even freshly baked rye bread) goes very well.
  4. Pancha phutana is a mix of whole spices. Equal parts by volume of fennel, nigella, cumin, mustard, fenugreek. My grandmother’s secret formula added 1/8 part of dried chilli seeds. I use this here to accentuate the achari-ness.

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Tikka Masala Leftover Turkey

The Tikka Masala originated in the restaurant. Not a home kitchen. At the time of the last pandemic (1920’s), this iconic Indian dish was yet to be born. Usually made with chicken, the one here is a turkey (leftover) version. The result vied closely with the original centerpiece of Thanksgiving day. The technique is tediously multi-layered and time-consuming, but worth the effort. Enjoy!

Special tools:

Immersion blender.

Ingredients

  • Turkey Tikka: Marinade for at least 2 hrs.
    • 4 cups of 1-2 inch cubes of cooked Turkey (~1 lb)
    • Marinade mix: 1 cup yogurt + 6 tsp ginger-garlic minced (6 cloves garlic and grated ginger) + 6 tsp curry powder (OR 2 tsp garam masala+2 tsp coriander + 2tsp cumin + 1 tbsp paprika) + 4 tsps turmeric powder + salt to taste
  • Masala Gravy: 4 tbsp oil, salt to taste
    • A. Aromatics:
      • 1 large onion, sliced + minced ginger-garlic-jalapeno (2 tbsp ginger;4 cloves garlic;2 chilies) + 1 bay leaf + 6 cardamom pods, crushed
      • 1 tsp garam masala + 1 tsp paprika
    • B. Gravy-body
      • 2 tbsp tomato paste + 1 (28 oz) can crushed tomatoes
      • 2 cups half and half + 3/4 cup chopped cilantro
    • C. Brightness: Juice of 1 lemon
  • Garnish: cilantro or micro-greens

Method

Tikka: Place the marinated Turkey chunks in a single layer on a baking tray and broil for 8-10 minutes until lightly charred.

Masala gravy: This is done in layers. In a Le Creuset (or a thick-bottomed) pot, heat 4 tbsp oil.
Step A1. (8-10 mins) Add A. ingredients, except the powder. Cook until the onions are soft.
Step A2. (1-2 mins) Add the aromatic powder ingredients, stir and carefully watch over it till fragrant, but not burnt.
Step B1. (10-15 mins) Add B1. ingredients –tomatoes– and cook until almost dry.
Step B2. (35-40 mins) Add B2. ingredients –cream & cilantro– and cook covered till oil floats on top.
Step C. (Finish) Take off heat, remove the bay leaf, add C. (lemon juice) and run an immersion blender till sauce is smooth. Adjust salt to taste.

Mix in the Tikka and garnish with greens. Serve hot with roti, tortilla or rice.

Notes, hints, tips:
  1. It is interesting that I adapted an A-list Indian dish from an American born Iranian chef, Samin Nosrat.
  2. The technique described here is what gives an Indian curry its pizzaz. What differentiates the tikka masala gravy is the use of large amount of tomatoes, and, cream.
  3. This is an over-the-top dish, so don’t plan on serving it every day 😉
  4. Kimchi Quinoa Leftover Chicken: A Korean inspired fried rice.
    • 1 cup quinoa (cooked in 2 cups water for 15 minutes)
    • Marinade chicken for a few hrs: 1 cup leftover pulled chicken + 2 tbsp soy sauce + 2 tbsp Sambol Oelek + 4-5 crushed garlic + 1 tbsp sesame seeds + 2 tsp sesame oil.
    • Aromatics: 1/2 cup thinly sliced onion + 6-7 garlic pods, crushed + 1/4 cup sliced fennel (optional) + 1/2 cup chopped Kale stems + 1/2 cup julienned carrot
    • 1 cup kimchi + 1 cup prepared chestnuts
    • Topping: 2 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
    • Heat 2 tbsp oil in a wok. Add the aromatics. Stir-fry till soft. Move them to the outer edges of the wok and add the chicken. Stir fry for 1-2 minutes. Add the prepared chestnuts and kimchi and stir-fry for 1-2 mins. Fold in the cooked quinoa and let heat through. Sprinkle sesame seeds and serve.

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Ottolenghi’s Brussel Sprouts with Grapes & Chestnut

The pandemic Thanksgiving needs to be special; hence the miniature cruciferous veggie gets an Ottolenghi treatment. The sweetness of lightly cooked grapes pop in your mouth and is very refreshing. And, chestnuts never disappoint! This is a multi-thread recipe and takes some prepping and planning with a multitude of ingredients, but ends up stealing the show. Enjoy.

Special tools:

None.

Ingredients

  • Thread 1: 4 cups Brussel sprouts (trimmed & halved) + salt + EVOO
  • Thread 2: 7 tbsp oil + 5 peeled garlic pod, whole + 5 medium shallots peeled and halved
    + 1 tbsp maple syrup + 6 tbsp rice wine (Shaoxing) + 5 bay leaves
    + 2 cups cooked chestnuts + 2 cups seedless grapes
  • Thread 3 (topping) : 2 jalapeno peppers, finely sliced + 2 tbsp rice wine vinegar + 1 tsp sugar + 1/2 tsp salt.
  • Garnish: parsley leaves

Method

The three threads can be done in parallel. Thread 1: Roast the Brussel sprouts at 450 F for 20 mins or until cooked. Thread 2: Mix all the ingredients, except grapes, in a thick bottomed pot. Cover and cook on very low heat for 20 mins. Then mix in the grapes and cook for another 5 mins and turn off the heat. Thread 3: Mix all ingredients and let pickle for the duration of the roasting of Thread 1.

Mix all the results of Thread 1 and 2 and let the flavors develop for 30 minutes or more. Serve at room temperature topped with Thread 3 and garnish.

Notes, hints, tips:
  1. Ottolenghi’s recipes are elaborate but always turn out fantastic! I am a big fan. I adapted his recipe here splitting it into thread 1 and 2 and doing them in parallel.
  2. You can add Rice wine (1-2 tbsp) and soy sauce (1-2 tbsp) to the final mix.
  3. Chestnut is versatile. In Clermont-Ferrand (France) I was introduced to chestnut ice cream. The stores even sell chestnut cream in a tube (ala Italian tomato paste). But here it gets a savory application.
    There are many ways to prepare fresh chestnuts, but store bought prepared chestnuts work equally well in recipes.
    • Prepping: In every method, slit each chestnut on the flat side, with the tip of a sharf knife.
    • Boiling: Slit and soak the chestnuts overnight in plenty of water. Next day, simmer in plenty of water for 30-40 mins until cooked through. Drain and cool.
    • Steam-Toasting: I discovered this method that toasts the shells to give the heady aroma, redolent of the Holidays, while the steam softens the shells.
      1. Slit and soak the chestnuts overnight in plenty of water, to get a head start on the shell softening. But if you are in a rush, a few hours to none is OK– you may just need more iterations in Step 3 below.
      2. Heat a heavy bottomed iron skillet on medium-high. Add the nuts to the hot pan with 2 oz water.
      3. Every 10 mins, remove cover and splash 2 oz water and cover immediately. It sizzles and steams up. Iterate this 3-4 times (30-40 mins) until done. Use your timer in 10-min repeat mode for convenience.
    • Shelling: Press the nut vertically, between your thumb and forefinger until the shell cracks and gently retrieve the whole flesh.

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Flavorwalla Braised Chicken

One of the many New Yorkers we lost after Covid19 diagnosis is Chef Floyd Cardoz. I knew him through Tabla: his Mumbai origin and training was never lost on me.

While sheltering-in-place, I pay tribute to him by adapting one of his creations from his book Flavorwalla (the title cracks me up and it’s so apt for his talents). I further simplify his simple dish and turn into a balanced, one-pot dish. The result is absolutely delicious– hence this post. I thought I was taking a risk by adding apple, pear and dijon mustard to the protein– but the tangy, mustardy stew will steal your heart. Enjoy fresh and refrigerate the left-over!

SPECIAL TOOLS:

Dutch oven (Le Cruset).

INGREDIENTS

  • 4 skin-less, bone-in chicken thighs, marinaded in a ziplock bag for 2 hrs, in 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste + 1 tbsp coriander powder + 1 tbsp Rosemary leaves + 1/4 cup EVOO
  • Aromatics: 1 medium onion, diced + 2 pods garlic, crushed
  • 2 cups chicken stock
  • Vegetables, cut into large 1.5 inch chunks: 1 large potato + 2 carrots + 1/2 fennel bulb
  • Greens: Napa cabbage cut into large pieces + 2 cups of spinach leaves
  • Fruits, cut into 1 inch chunks: 1 green apple cored + 1 pear cored
  • 2nd Flavor layer: 2 tbsp Dijon mustard + crushed chilli flakes
  • Grain: 1 cup quinoa

METHOD

Heat the dutch oven with the chicken and its marinade. When heated through and lightly browned on all sides, add the aromatic ingredients and cook till fragrant (2 minutes). Then add the vegetables, salt-to-taste and cook covered in oven at 375 F for 20 minutes.

Heat the chicken stock (in a microwave). Add to the dutch oven along with Napa cabbage, fruits, 2nd layer flavor ingredients, grains and salt to taste. Mix well, cover and cook at reduced heat (350 F) for 20 minutes. Take off the heat. Fold in the spinach leaves.

NOTES, HINTS, TIPS:

  1. Since we are adding vegetables in layers, the oven is a better option than a pressure cooker. Also, if you decide to cook on the stove-top instead of the oven, you must use a heavy bottomed pan, particularly for the first half of the cookin.
  2. The chicken is tender enough to be pulled off the bones.
  3. You can also use parsnips, turnips etc.
  4. Same for greens- escarole, kale, chard.
  5. Same for grains- couscous, fonio (adjust the cooking time).
  6. The dots in the photograph are the multi-colored quinoa and the specks of dijon mustard.

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Perfumed Lamb Stew with fennel, peppadew

I bet you never expected to see “perfumed” and “lamb” together. This stew is amazingly fragrant from the mixed notes of fennel and grapefruit zest. Enjoy!

SPECIAL TOOLS:

Dutch oven (Le Cruset).

INGREDIENTS

  • 2 lb boneless butterflied leg-of-lamb cut into large 2 inch chunks, after removing the fat layers + salt and pepper
  • Aromatics: 1 medium onion, diced + 2 pods garlic, crushed + 2 anchovy fillets + 1 medium-sized carrot, cut into thin discs
  • 1 cup red wine
  • Vegetables: 1/2 fennel, thinly sliced cross-wise + 10 shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced + 1/2 cup pitted kalamata olives
  • Topping: 1 medium grape-fruit, zested and juiced + 1/8 cup pitted kalamata olives + 5-6 small pickled hot peppers (Peppadew), with 2 tbsp pickling liquid (optional: dash of Pernod)

METHOD

Mix the lamb with the aromatics in a thick bottomed pot (Le Cruset). Note that you do not have to add any liquid. Cover and cook at 325 F for 1 hour. Stir and continue to cook covered for another hour. Note that the meat will be neatly browned by now.

After 2 hrs (or less, depending on your oven, size of your pot etc), deglaze with red wine and mix in the vegetable ingredients and cook uncovered for another 45 mins to 1 hr till fork tender. Remove from the oven and mix in the toppings and keep covered for 5 minutes. Serve hot with rice.

NOTES, HINTS, TIPS:

  1. I love the no-fuss browning technique. Two sources of browning here. The usual hot surface of the pot (hence don’t stir) and the second is the browning of the exposed surface from the heat in the oven when the lid is removed.
  2. I had stumbled upon the browning technique of above out of sheer minimalism or laziness for elaborate procedures (like coating with flour, browning individually etc).
  3. If your pot has a larger surface area, you may lose the juices faster than if all is crammed into smaller space. So, make your adjustments accordingly and adding a little water if required.
  4. Adapted from the French, à la Gardiane.

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Armenia meets India: Ghapama

When I was in Armenia, every meal was a feast and every feast had ghapama. I was surprised to learn the inroads this Thanksgiving staple had made in Armenia. I can’t help but give an Indian twist with kala chana and tur dal- two iconic Indian legumes. Just a hint of spices with aromatic ghee. This fusion ghapama is bound to steal your heart.

Special tools:

None.

Ingredients

  • 1 pie pumpkin; cut the top to make a lid; scoop out interior; brush with a little EVOO and sprinkle a little salt
  • Legumes: 1 cup kala chana, 1 cup tur dal, each soaked separately in plenty of water for 1-2 hrs, then cooked separately till tender and drained
  • 1 cup wheat berries, cooked until done (follow the instructions on the packet, approx 15 minutes in 2.5 cups water)
  • 1/2 cup figs, each fig quartered
  • 2 tbsp ghee + 1 tbsp cooking oil
  • Indian spices:
    • 1 tsp whole cumin seeds; 1/2 tsp asafoetida (heeng)
    • garam masala: 1 tsp cinnamon powder + 1/4 tsp clove powder
  • salt to taste

Method

Filling: Heat the ghee and oil. Splutter the cumin seeds, add the heeng. Don’t let this burn and immediately add the figs. Then all the legumes and wheat berries. Mix well. Add salt and garam masala powders. Taste for seasonings.

Stuff the bottom half of the pumpkin with the filling. Place the pumpkin lid on top. Keep the rest of the stuffing aside to serve separately on the side. Place the whole pumpkin on a baking tray.

Bake at 350 F for 1 hour.

Notes, hints, tips:
  1. Do not be embarrassed to take the help of your sous chef -The Microwave. Soften the pumpkin skin in the microwave for 2-3 minutes and then cut the top off.
  2. I used the 9″ chef’s knife. Be careful when using a large knife and a stubborn pumpkin. Assume Murphy’s law that if an accident could happen, it will. For the heterodox use of the knife here, always keep the sharp edge away from you.

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